Canada and the U.S.

Havana Best Friends (McClelland & Stewart)

Havana Best Friends (McClelland & Stewart)

ISBN: 978–0-7710–4660-5 (0–7710-4660-X)

CHAPTER 1

The most remark­able fea­ture of the Par­que de la Quinta, in Havana’s posh Mira­mar sub­urb, is the full-grown, sixty-foot ficus trees. Their numer­ous hang­ing vines reach the pub­lic park’s red clay, dig into it, grow roots, and form dozens of slen­der trunks around the main one. Nature-loving tourists coast­ing along Fifth Avenue in their rentals fre­quently slow down to gape at them, risk­ing a traf­fic ticket by park­ing next to the curb to pho­to­graph or video­tape them­selves next to the veg­e­tal giants.

When that hap­pens, the police offi­cer stand­ing under a metal­lic sun­shade by the gleam­ing white res­i­dence of the Bel­gian ambas­sador to Cuba, a restored man­sion on the cor­ner of Fifth and 24th Street, usu­ally says into the trans­ceiver mounted on his left shoul­der some­thing like, “41 to 04. A 314 on Fifth between: 24th and 26th. Plate T-00357,” then waits to see whether a cop in a nearby squad car will arrive and slap a fine on the vio­la­tor. But on this Fri­day morn­ing, the young cop had been ogling a woman jog­ging around the park and didn’t report the black Hyundai that had ille­gally pulled over on Fifth and dis­charged a tall, over­weight man.

The jogger’s blond hair was pulled back into a pony­tail that reached below her shoul­ders and swayed grace­fully as she ran. A light-green sweat­shirt cov­ered a skimpy bra in which were nes­tled small breasts; black Lycra leg­gings hugged ample round hips and well-proportioned thighs; cot­ton socks and sneak­ers com­pleted her apparel. The cop wasn’t pay­ing atten­tion to her long eye­brows, honey-coloured eyes, straight nose, or thin lips; he was focus­ing on her behind — not as hefty as he pre­ferred. “Nice temba,” he said, using the Cuban slang for an attrac­tive woman in her late thir­ties or early forties.

The cop thought that her rangy escort, a few yards behind, looked like a middle-aged scholar who had decided to exer­cise on a reg­u­lar basis only after intel­lec­tu­al­iz­ing the ben­e­fits involved, an impres­sion enhanced by his innocent-looking blue eyes and clean-shaven face. Six or seven inches taller than her five-feet-four, he had short copper-coloured hair par­tially hid­den by a white ban­dana. A pur­ple sweat­shirt cov­ered his flat chest and belly; hairy legs showed under his baggy brown shorts. His feet, shod with Reeboks and lack­ing socks, revealed bony ankles.

The jog­gers turned on the cor­ner of 24th and con­tin­ued their fourth lap on the side­walk along Fifth. Per­spi­ra­tion glis­tened on their faces, dark­ened the cloth under their armpits. Their skin, where vis­i­ble, was quite rosy. This made the cop assume the jog­gers were 61 is, the code for aliens. In Havana, among white peo­ple, at a glance and from a dis­tance, a sun­tan fre­quently sets locals apart from for­eign­ers. Par­tic­u­larly in Mira­mar, where embassies and the offices of multi­na­tion­als are flanked by pri­vate homes, it’s not easy to sur­mise who is or isn’t a native.

Cloth­ing is not an infal­li­ble clue. Most Cubans dress mod­estly, but the num­ber of those in fash­ion­able sports­wear and flashy run­ning shoes — the dress favoured by many tourists –grows steadily as remit­tances from Cubans liv­ing abroad increase year after year. Red or rosy skin is a more reli­able indication.

Few of the sun’s rays fil­tered through the park’s dense foliage canopy and reached the soil, where spots of lawn sur­vived pre­car­i­ously along­side fine gravel. Dead leaves were being raked by a gar­dener. The scent of dew and plants was over­pow­ered by the exhaust fumes from the steady stream of vehi­cles speed­ing along. Spar­rows and grack­les peck­ing close to the sin­u­ous walk­ways flut­tered to the safety of branches and twigs when pedes­tri­ans got too close. A thirty-foot per­gola was being swept clean by an old woman who resem­bled Warty the witch, minus cat and hat.

The cou­ple ran past the bust of Gen­eral Prado, the nineteenth-century Peru­vian pres­i­dent who favoured the inde­pen­dence of Cuba, and rounded the side­walk at the cor­ner of 26th. This was the third con­sec­u­tive morn­ing they’d exer­cised in the park between 7:45 and 8:15, give or take a cou­ple of min­utes. Across the street, the Catholic church of Santa Rita de Casia already had its doors open.

The jog­gers rounded the cor­ner of 26th and stared down Third A, a curved street. The three young men shoot­ing the breeze on the cor­ner and the tall, over­weight man con­tem­plat­ing a mon­u­ment to Mahatma Ghandi behind the per­gola eyed the cou­ple curi­ously when the man slowed down, stopped, bent over, and grabbed both knees. The woman glanced over her shoul­der, reduced her speed, and came to a halt. He hun­kered down. Shere­traced sev­eral steps, rested her left hand on his back, and talked to him with a look of concern.

The man nod­ded before straight­en­ing up. Both were try­ing to get their breath­ing back to nor­mal. She said some­thing, look­ing at a three-storey apart­ment build­ing across the street. He shook his head, but then grabbed her shoul­der, as if for bal­ance. She steered him toward the apart­ment build­ing, eye­brows knit­ted in a frown.

The concrete-and-block cube, num­bered 2406, was a six-unit — three fac­ing the street, three at the back — built in the 19505. Painted light grey, it was flanked on one side by a lot where the foun­da­tion for a new build­ing was being dug, and on the other by a house with a red-tile roof. It looked out of place in this neigh­bour­hood of older build­ings. Three bal­conies with French win­dows, one on each floor, faced the street.

Inside the apart­ment build­ing, the woman pressed the buzzer along­side the sole door on the ground floor. Nearly a minute went by before it was opened by a tall, good-looking woman wear­ing a white short-sleeved blouse, a dark-green knee-length skirt, and high heels.

“Si?” the sur­prised res­i­dent asked, her left eye­brow arched.

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